Fjord days: Caleta Chaparano to Puerto Varas

Cycling days 109, 110, 111 & 112 Caleta Chaparano to Río Puelo Juan had already left when we got up at 8am. Ofelia (her amazing host dial still cranked up to the max) made us some tea and set out some bread and butter for us to snuffle before we left. What a sweety. Leaving […]

Read More…

Carretera Austral part seven: Chaiten to Caleta Chaparano

Cycling days 105, 106, 107 & 108 Chaitén to Parque Pumalín We left Chaitén fairly early, rejoining the Carretera Austral as it headed north through Parque Pumalín. This national park is free to enter and was created by American Doug Tompkins (founder of North Face). It is one of the largest private parks in the […]

Read More…

Carretera Austral part six: Puyuhuapi to Chaiten

Puyuhuapi to La Junta Today was a frustrating day!!! We woke up early and left the campsite in search of fresh bread. We went from shop to shop, bakery to bakery and just couldn’t find any! After about an hour of wondering around and being sent on a wild goose chase by the locals, we […]

Read More…

Carretera Austral part five: Coyhaique to Puyuhuapi

Cycling days 101, 102, 103 & 104 Coyhaique to bridge-side camp Our northward progress had stalled somewhat in Coyhaique. We spent many more days than anticipated there, enjoying the comforts of hot showers, a well-stocked supermarket, and fast wi-fi. To be honest, the Carretera Austral was beginning to really tire us both out and we […]

Read More…

Carretera Austral part two: Cochrane to Rio Tranquilo

Cycling days: 93, 94 & 95 Cochrane to Puerto Bertrand After leaving our ‘hospedaje of horrors’, we headed to Cochrane’s main square and hung around until the supermarket opened at 11am. We bought food for the next few days of remote riding. Unfortunately though, there were no sopapillas! This was heart breaking as we were […]

Read More…

Carretera Austral part one: Villa O’Higgins to Cochrane

Cycling days: 88, 89, 90, 91 & 92 The Carretera Austral is a mostly unpaved road that runs 1,240 kilometers from Puerto Montt in the north to Villa O’Higgins in the south. It passes through remote regions of Chillean Patagonia alongside ancient forests, glaciers, pioneer farmsteads, turquoise rivers and lakes, and the crashing Pacific. The […]

Read More…